Would a warrior really lay down his swords and crawl into a tea house on his hands and knees to drink a bowl of foamy green tea?
Odd as it may sound, Japanese samurai warriors did this for hundreds of years to cleanse and rebalance their spirits after battle.
Chado — the Japanese Way of Tea — introduced by Urasenke tea master Sen no Rikyu in the second half of the 16th century, helped free warriors of the residue of battle-front hostilities. This cleansing and balancing activity was especially important in Japanese Shinto culture, where a clean home, clean emotions and civil behavior toward family and friends was especially valued.
Embraced by the Japanese for more than 400 years, chado is a living art form, one that includes calligraphy, ceramics, cooking and gardening as well as chanoyu, the tea gathering ceremony.
“While firmly rooted in Japanese culture, chanoyu also transcends any one culture,” says Sakina von Briesen, chief administrator of Chado New Mexico. “It’s a transformational practice focusing on discipline, aesthetics and social interaction.”
From 2:15 to 4 p.m. Aug. 4, Chado New Mexico will host a Peace Tea at the State Capitol Rotunda to commemorate the 62nd anniversary of the bombing of Hiroshima and Nagasaki.
A talk by German Zen monk and senior Urasenke tea instructor Ulrich Haas Sensei about the “Spirit of Tea” will be followed by a demonstration of the short version of the Japanese tea ceremony, with a traditional Japanese sweet and fresh bowl of bright-green matcha tea served to every seated guest by members of Chado New Mexico.
According to a recent news release, the organization hopes the tea will encourage participants “to reflect on the value of peace in their hearts.”
Food is medicine
Chado, or The Way of Tea, celebrates the evanescence of life by infusing participants with wa, kei, sei, jaku (harmony, respect, purity and tranquility). It’s believed that guests at tea ceremonies in turn subtly suffuse others with these vibes — thus spreading peace in quiet and inestimable ways.
Von Briesen says that although a short chanoyu usually lasts about an hour, it also is a timeless activity — timepieces, jewelry and perfume are not worn in the tearoom.
A full-length chanoyu lasts four-and-a-half hours, and includes a kaiseki (or warm stone) meal. The name of the meal comes from an ancient practice of Zen monks, who used to slide warm stones inside their robes during long meditations to keep their bellies from throbbing with hunger.
A tea kaiseki meal begins with a little rice and soup in bowls, along with a dish of salty food (often fish) to complement the sake being served, von Briesen says, adding, “These small amounts of carefully prepared food are planned to complement the full flavor of two kinds of tea served at the end as the climax of the gathering.”
The second serving in a kaiseki meal dishes up larger portions of rice, miso soup and a main course.
A covered bowl of broth redolent with seasonal vegetables and fish delights guests with a touch of the unexpected, be it a dab of hot mustard or citrus rinds. Guests lift the lids on their bowls in unison and shower oohs and ahs at the host, showing their appreciation of the carefully orchestrated and meticulous preparations.
The tea kaiseki meal ends on a mellow note with a dessert of large, moist sweets.
The next “course” in a full length chanoyu is a stroll outside, in the chaniwa or tea garden, while the host cleans up for the climax — the two-course tea serving. First, koicha or thick tea is served, followed by usucha or lighter tea with daintier, dry sweets to help guests make the transition back to the outer world.
Serving guests the finest, seasonal foods is a healing experience.
“In Japanese culture, food is medicine,” explains Yoshi Nakano, shiatsu instructor at Ten Thousand Waves Japanese Spa and Resort in Santa Fe. “In Japan, we ask the chef daily, ‘What is shun food for today?’ ” he says. (Shun means seasonal.)
The Japanese believe that subtle environmental energies fluctuate and change about every 10 days. Since our bodies also acclimate to these seasonal shifts, eating shun food is more than half the battle in staying healthy, Nakano points out.
The chanoyu experience transforms the mundane ingredients — food, tea — by elevating the art of gracious living into transcendent moments shared by friends.
A chanoyu invitation is to be treasured as a gift of peaceful joy from your host, reciprocated by your being present in the moment. Guests participate actively in the Way of Tea, von Briesen says, by giving the ceremony, the host and each other their sincere, undivided attention.
As meditation master Sri Chinmoy notes, “Peace begins when expectation ends.”
u u u
“Chanoyu should be made with the heart, not with the hand. Make it without making it, in the stillness of your mind.”
— Hamamoto Soshun, Urasenke Instructor
Recipes for tea preparation and kanten, a summer dessert, from Sakina von Briesen.
Before making a bowl of matcha, you may want to eat a small sweet to prepare your palate. The flavor of matcha will change considerably when you have a sweet flavor in your mouth.
Matcha powder will lose its freshness and flavor quickly once opened, von Briesen says, the way ground coffee does. Once opened, the package can be frozen for about a month, away from strong smelling foods. Let it warm to room temperature before opening the container.
Preparing a bowl of matcha
Sift the matcha powder, as this results in a smoother and more satisfying bowl of tea.
Rinse a bowl in warm water, then dry thoroughly.
Place about 1 heaping teaspoon of sifted matcha in the bowl. Pour about 1/4 cup of boiling water that has cooled for about 30 seconds into the tea.
Taste and adjust proportions according to your personal taste.
Hold the bowl with one hand on the table; with your writing hand whisk briskly (as in beating eggs) with a tea whisk (or chasen) for about 20 seconds. Use only your wrist, keeping your shoulder as loose as possible.
Some like a layer of green foam on top of the matcha, while others prefer less foam. The most important end result is to mix tea and water to a smooth consistency.
Cup the bowl with both hands and drink the tea fairly quickly, as the flavor is best within the first 2 minutes after whisking.
Sources for matcha and chanoyu supplies: The Archetype Store at Sunrise Springs Retreat; call 471-3600 for store hours
Online: www.tea-circle.com; www.matchaandmore.com
Kanten (agar-agar or dried seaweed) is the natural thickening used for cool, refreshing jello-like Japanese desserts.
Kanten is easy to make, and excellent preceding a bowl of matcha on a hot day, or as a lovely warm weather dessert on its own. Sold as flakes in the Asian section of most natural food stores, they are bunched up in bars — get the natural, opaque ones — in Asian grocery stores.
Kanten Sweets
- 7 grams (.25 ounce) kanten, flakes or bars
- 2 cups liquid (water, or try a mix of water and fruit juice to add color and flavor)
- 1/2 to 3/4 cup granulated sugar, depending on desired sweetness
- Optional: whole berries or fresh seasonal fruit cut into bite-sized pieces
If using kanten bars, soak in water for 1/2 hour before cooking, then wring out water and tear into small pieces.
Place all ingredients except fruit in a saucepan, and bring to boil over medium heat. Simmer till kanten dissolves, stirring continuously for 15 to 20 minutes.
Strain through a fine strainer to remove lumps and impurities. Pour into 8-inch-by-8-inch glass baking dish, or into a mold. Add fresh fruit for more flavor and texture. As kanten starts thickening, the fruit can be pushed down so it appears to be floating in the middle of the pan.
If desired, add another kanten layer of a different color or flavor, scoring the surface lightly with a fork before pouring on the next layer so the layers stick on better.
Refrigerate kanten until it sets. To serve, cut kanten into shapes. If it sticks to the pan, use a knife rinsed in hot water to free the edges.
Sunamita Lim is the author of Japanese Style: Designing with Nature’s Beauty (2007) and Chinese Style: Living in Beauty and Prosperity (2006)
PEACE TEA CEREMONIES
- WHAT: Chado New Mexico
- WHEN: 2:15 to 4 p.m. Saturday. Talk on the Spirit of Tea starts at 2:15 p.m.; matcha and a traditional Japanese sweet will be served to seated guests starting at 3 p.m. Last seating at 3:45 p.m. Unreserved seating is on a first-come, first-serve basis.
- WHERE: State Capitol Rotunda, corner of Paseo de Peralta and Old Santa Fe Trail. Free parking is available in the visitor and staff lot on Paseo de Peralta or at the Visitors Information Center on Old Santa Fe Trail, across from the entrance to the capitol.
- PRICE: Free
- WHAT: Sunrise Springs
- WHEN: 5 to 6:30 p.m. Sunday. The ceremony to honor Peace Day will be held in an authentic Japanese tea house on the spa’s grounds. Seating is limited for this ceremony; advance reservation are required. A bowl of matcha (a foamy green tea) and a small sweet will be offered to each guest in a meditative way. The first bowl of tea will be made as an offering and dedicated to peace
- WHERE: Sunrise Springs Resort Spa, 242 Los Pinos Road
- PRICE: $30 per person
- RESERVATIONS: Call 428-3615
ON OUR WEB SITE
Find more about green tea, additional recipes and photos: www.santafenewmexican.com